Monuments to gods and demi-gods

After having a meeting, running errands, and having lunch with a professor here at UNSAAC, I made my way to Qorikancha, the Incan Temple of the Sun (photo 1). I was supposed to tour it with Ivan, a local who works in a cafe I visited a couple of times. While I was waiting I chatted with a couple of ambulantes, and ended up buying something just out of gratefulness for the conversation. Since I am thinking I may have to learn Quechua, I was speaking to one woman about the language. She told me that it is very easy to speak, but very difficult to write, especially for Spanish-speakers. At least there is a gigantic population with which I could practice!

Ivan arrived shortly thereafter, but we didn't end up going inside since he had to go back to the restaurant for something. Instead we walked down to a large monument to Pachakuteq, an Incan who has apparently been called the "Napoleon of the Andes." He expanded the empire across much of South America, and apparently had Machu Picchu and Qoricancha built during his reign. I'm not certain, but I believe that the mural in the second photo is a reference to him. Ivan tells me that there is a belief that when things are at their worst for Peru, Pachakuteq will return and save the day.

The monument is also a museum, so we entered, looked at the installations as we climbed, and then took in the sunset from the top. The monument (photo 3) offers a pretty nice view of Cusco. Photo 4 is the view to the east, photo 5 to the west towards the Plaza de Armas.

I'll have to actually enter the Temple of the Sun at some point. Maybe tomorrow!

Work and weird foods

I am working a lot, although not as much on the research part as I probably should be. I have had a couple of meetings and at least one has led to further contacts, but there are a few missing links still for the places that I would like to visit. There are a few communities that were pretty badly affected by the floods earlier this year, but I don't know anyone there. I also need contacts in Aguas Calientes so that I can plan for a trip there, and of course Machu Picchu while I am in the area.

In the meantime I have been hanging out at the library of the Centro Bartolome de las Casas, which has a pretty decent selection but is difficult to access. You have to pay to enter (ok, only $1), you can only look at two books at a time, and you have to request them and wait for someone to bring them to you. Then, you can only make copies which cost more than double per page compared to what I paid for copies the day before, and the cheaper place also only counted each piece of paper, not each printed side! I suppose it is worth it, some of the resources I found are definitely must reads and I am not sure I'd be able to find them back home. Fortunately, one of the programs that I am studying likes to make their reports available for free online!

I finally spent some time in the Plaza de Armas at night. I went with Gisela to a cafe for some ponche de leche - milk punch. It is basically warm milk with pisco, quite tasty and soothing on a chilly night. The view of the plaza was also gorgeous, we were able to watch people walk around (photos 1-2). We also walked by Qoricancha, the Incan Temple of the Sun (photo 3). The Spanish built a cathedral on top of it, in typical conquistador style. It was closed at night, but very picturesque. I have plans to check it out tomorrow during the daytime when I can tour the inside.

I finally tried the cuy! It was difficult to eat, tasted a bit like fish, and had a face. I think that all carnivores should eat meat with a face sometimes, it makes you respect the food a bit more. I would eat it again if it was put in front of me, but I probably wouldn't ask for it. One thing that I did appreciate was that I know that the proceeds benefit impoverished women. The restaurant is part of a social program to help undernourished children, and the cuy is purchased directly from women participating in the program to help them feed their children. The restaurant also trains youth in cooking and waiting and employs them.

I am meeting some very interesting people in general, and really wish that I had the time to just wander around and talk to people! Although my research contacts aren't coming through as quickly as I would hope, I am loving chatting with people in the service industry (hostels and restaurants) and the walking vendors. Sometimes I don't like being harassed by some of the vendors, but sometimes it is fun to duck into a doorway or something to hide from the police, converse, and exchange cash for art. The ambulantes, as they are called, are not allowed to sell near the main square because they compete with the in-store businesses there and don't pay taxes. I prefer to buy directly from the artist because I know it is not factory-made, and I know that they are doing all the hard work while someone else is earning wages in a store. It is fun to chat with them, too. Many people are impressed with my Spanish, which is pretty sad because it isn't THAT good, but I suppose that compared to most tourists it is decent. I am not sure what I will do if people that I want to speak to only speak Quechua. I may have to learn that too!

Cusco

Well, I was off to a bit of a slow start to my research work in Cusco, but it gave me a bit more time to walk around and to prepare for the course I am teaching online this summer. I haven't had much time to post, but then again I haven't really done anything all that interesting. The online course is up and running, the textbook materials are coming along, and now after a few meetings I have some leads on potential research topics.

The more fun stuff is the very quaint but very touristy area of Plaza de Armas and the San Blas neighborhood. The first four pictures are of San Blas, the oldest and probably most picturesque neighborhood in Cusco. The streets are mostly narrow and cobbled, usually just wide enough for the width of one car and one person. It makes for some interesting interactions when two people are walking in the opposite direction while a car is approaching. Who steps off the sidewalk?

I love the graffiti in the second picture. There are a lot of local people in traditional dress walking around with llamas, and they make their living by taking photos of tourists with the llamas. The third photo is nearby in the balcony of a cafe overlooking a plaza in San Blas. I had an amazing veggie burger there and a gigantic serving of passion fruit juice. I am loving the availability and flavor of fruit and juices around here.

The last photo is one of the cathedrals in the Plaza de Armas (not the main one). It is a gorgeous plaza, and I especially enjoy that there are trees, grass, and flowers. In most of the other plazas that I have seen they are entirely paved over with stones. The plaza is currently decorated with the Peruvian flag in honor of the upcoming independence day celebrations (July 28). I am a bit disappointed that I am going to miss my own independence day AND Peru's, and just by a few days, too! On the other hand, I will be happy to spend my birthday at home, probably in bed after 3 straight days of traveling!

Lima to Cusco - Transcending the Permacloud!

It was so nice to finally rise above the permanent cloud cover in Lima. It was especially nice to have such a beautiful sunrise as the first thing that I saw above the clouds. The layer of clouds was flat and looked like water surrounding the mountains/islands. The mountains looked even cooler as we approached Cusco and got into higher altitudes and brighter sunlight. I was able to see a number of glaciers and glacial lakes, which is great considering that they may not be there for long! One of the programs that I am going to be studying is working with rural communities to make plans for the coming water scarcity. There isn't much rain around here, so once the glaciers are gone there will be trouble.

The approach to Cusco was interesting. One minute you are flying, the next you are on the runway. It sort of appears beneath the plane unexpectedly! There was a bit of confusion and my "guide" and I never found each other at the airport, but I took a taxi to the hostel, checked in, and then set out in search of breakfast. I had to walk much further than anticipated and accidentally veered off course (I was aiming for the Plaza de Armas), but I finally managed to find a cafe. The server made fun of me for ordering so many things, but I was so hungry by then and in need of both juice and coffee. I took one of the empanadas with me to eat for lunch and walked around looking for the plaza. I didn't find it and the altitude was getting to me, so I headed back to the hostel.

On the way I found 3 women with some kind of baby animal (goats?) who suggested I get a photo with them. Why not? I tried to talk with them, but they only spoke Quechua so the only thing we could figure out together was the price for the photos. After that I headed back to the hostel and spent the entire day doing class prep and resting. I think that the altitude makes your skull expand, because my eyes feel like they are going to fall out and when I shake my head I can feel my brain moving around. Cusco isn't as high in altitude as the Sierra Nevado del Ruiz, but I was only there for a few hours. I should get used to it pretty soon, though, and if not there is always coca tea!

Barranco and Peruvian sushi

Wow, I am slacking off on the blog lately. Of course, there is not much going on that is blogworthy, I am mostly cramming to finish preparations for the online class that I start teaching on Monday. Almost ready! I just need to finalize a few assignments and write the exams. I have spent most of my time in Lima doing work in the hostel, although I venture out every now and then for food or short activities. The first photo is the table setting in a fancier version of a sushi restaurant. It was a pretty stark contrast to the one in Bogota. The bottle on the right is a gorgeous one for the soy sauce, none of those silly Kikkoman bottles here! In the center is the mesero signal. It is like the flag things at Pancho's, but much more technologically advanced. You push the button if you want service, and it causes an alarm to go off on the arm of the server. There is even a separate button for the check!

I also wanted to make sure that I got in a visit to the home and studio of artist Victor Delfin, who has converted his home to a B&B. My dad highly recommended the studio tour, so I headed to the Barranco municipalidad to check it out. Unfortunately you need an appointment, and since I wasn't a guest I was scorned and turned away. No big deal, the area is pretty cool by itself so I walked around. The buildings are very colorful and there are some interesting art pieces around (example in photo 2). There are also quite a few historical buildings, restaurants in old train cars, and the like.

I also found a way for pedestrians to get to the ocean (photo 3)! It is impossible to do so in Miraflores where I have been staying, but there is a less-steep hill to descend and a nice pedestrian bridge across the Pan-American Highway. The ocean is not exciting at this particular beach. It isn't very clean, and when the waves recede you can see iron death spikes from what was probably once the stilts of a building or pier (photo 4). I do love the sound that the waves make here though, because they are falling on what I would have previously described as river rocks - fairly large, smooth stones that make a neat sound when they are dragged across one another under the waves. The last photo is a vulture on top of a church that is falling apart. They are leaving it up as a monument, but there are vultures all over the roof. This particular one stayed in that same position with wings spread for a good 20 minutes at least, and was still like that when I left.

I walked around a bit and then headed back to the hostel to try to get some course prep done while watching the Copa. The hostel had a nice little party since the owner is German, with free food and discounted booze. Everyone was for Germany, so it was disappointing for them. They were a very excitable crowd, though! After that I took my work to a restaurant hoping to get some veggies and some warmth. I ended up with vegetable (i.e., potato) soup and warmth from my comestibles, but it didn't last so I eventually headed back to the hostel. The restaurant was interesting though. I was watching an Argentinian telenovela and listening to American 80s soft rock while sitting in an Arabic restaurant in Peru. How cosmopolitan! Overall I have enjoyed Lima, but am looking forward to some sun in Cusco!!!

Lima

Well, after a near miss I managed to make it to Lima on time. I was greeted at the airport by Jose and Jessie, the brother and sister-in-law of one of the Panama conference participants. It was really nice to have someone meet me there and then help me get to the hostel. After they dropped me off, I showered and then headed out with my new roommate Diana to search for a water bottle to replace the one I accidentally left in Cali. Figures that I arrived in a place where I have to purify water without a bottle that I can use with my SteriPen. I found one in a shopping center overlooking the Pacific Ocean (photo 1). I've been boiling water and not drinking as much as usual since arriving in Lima, but now that I have found a new bottle I am rehydrated!! Of course, I don't actually want to drink so much after learning about Lima's desperate water situation. I didn't realize just how dry this place is, despite the continuous blanket of clouds. All of the water for the city comes from disappearing Andean glaciers, so who knows what is going to happen to the 10 million who live here when they are gone.

I walked around a bit that evening and found myself in Kennedy Park. Not only do they have a bunch of wild cats running around, they have a fantastic little dance floor in an amphitheater (photo 2). It was primarily filled with adorable older couples, and I even found myself wanting to be a viejita dancing with the amor of my life.

The next day I spent the afternoon with Jose, Jessie, and Jessie's brothers who were visiting for the weekend. We first grabbed some lunch near the Plaza de Armas. The chicha that I had with lunch was much better than that which I had tried in a grocery store the night before, the latter was basically flat soda because of the amount of sugar. We walked through the plaza after lunch, where you can see the original cathedral, the presidential palace, and a giant screen upon which they are showing the World Cup games all in one glance (photo 3). I assume that the buildings are brightly colored in order to contrast with the permanently overcast skies.

We were harassed by all sorts of restaurants, vendors, and people offering tour packages. We ended up taking one tour, however, which goes to the top of San Cristobal hill overlooking the city. My new friends are there in the fourth photo. You know that there could not be a hill so prominent without some sort of religious symbol, and sure enough there is a large yellow cross on the top. I also enjoyed looking at the very colorful homes on the way up, and I am very curious about the "modernization" project that is advertised throughout the neighborhood. The view from the top would be amazing with better visibility, but the extent of the city is still very apparent from there.

Then we decided to take a tour of a 16th century Franciscan monastery with catacombs (last photo). There are vendors selling birdseed for the pigeons, who are clearly well fed as evidenced by the birdseed still scattered all over the plaza. Tuppence, tuppence, tuppence a bag. Unfortunately, they would not allow photos to be taken inside. It is a shame, because the design and architecture were quite interesting and beautiful. The catacombs were very strange. Apparently some archaeologists decided to "organize" the bones in there, so they are sorted according to type. There are piles of femurs, tibia, skulls, and so on. In one room there is a design, a pile of skulls in the center with alternating rows of femurs, skulls, humeri, and who knows what else. As we were leaving the monastery, we were surprised to hear not chanting nor hymns, but another very traditional type of music... "Boooorn to be wiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiild!" We cracked ourselves up joking about how this song is a traditional 16th century hymn, ideal for meditation and communion with the Lord. Yeah, monks! Party like it's 1599!!

Back to Bogota

I'm starting to feel very guilty about my carbon footprint this summer. I knew I was going to be traveling by plane quite a bit, but I have ended up taking some unexpected flights in order to avoid day long bus trips through the mountains. Am I lame for not toughing it out? Perhaps. Am I getting more work done? Definitely. My most recent unexpected flight took me from Cali back to Bogota a day ahead of my flight to Lima. Since I arrived in the afternoon, I took some time to FINALLY see Plaza Bolivar (photo 1). I also had the good fortune of sunshine, so the buildings were extremely beautiful. Naturally, there was also a gigantic screen where they are showing the World Cup games when they are on.

After that, I visited the Botero museum. I was a little bit surprised to see works by some very famous artists in a free museum, like Dali, Picasso, Rodin, Monet, and more. The sculpture below is a work by Dali. There weren't very many pieces by other artists, though, and as you might expect the museum was mostly full of pieces by Botero. He has a very distinctive style. All of his subjects are fat, including one painting of a skeleton and a sketch of a wide but very defined crucified Jesus (see picasa album). He also likes birds and very, very large fruit. I have included the Pair of Dancers and a statue of a man with a child standing on the mother's back. What could he possible have meant by that one?

After that I had some sushi in La Candelaria. Between the Spanish and the Japanese I'm not really sure what exactly it was that I ate, but I really enjoyed the maki with mango. The place was totally funky and I loved it, so I randomly started taking pictures in the restaurant (self-portraits included, below). I was having a really great day when I was wandering around, and really productive when I was working. The well-being must have carried over into the morning, because apparently my alarm clock can be set for particular days (who knew?!) and didn't go off. It was set for MONDAY at 5:30am. Luckily I woke up at 6:30, which was half an hour after I wanted to leave the hostel but still gave me enough time to catch my flight to Lima. Whew!